Olivier Theyskens' fall/winter 2009 collection for the house of Nina Ricci was, in a word, astounding. The whole thing, from start to finish, should be titled "How to Present a Collection that will make People's Jaws Drop". It was really that good. I have to be totally honest however, and admit that I did not care for the dresses in this collection. Don't get me wrong, they were gorgeous. They just weren't things that appealed to my aesthetic. However, I thought the looks with pants were incredible.
The above look opened the show, and what a way to open it was! The shoulder and material of that sweater is perfect. It's so strong and creates an almost visceral, powerful effect. Then the pants are stunning. The length, the material (which is oh so flowy), and the straightness create a very long lean and mean silhouette. I am not kidding when I say I would wear this look from head to toe (including the magnificent shoes which I will discuss in detail later) out on the town. It's one of those, "I"m going to find me a man tonight" looks, which for me is always a winner.
This look is probably my favorite of the whole collection. I think it is a lot more subtle than the other looks, and when you have the skill level that Olivier Theyskens has, I think it can be very powerful when you use a little restraint. In my mind, it makes the clothes that much more refined.
I think this is the most well executed jumpsuit I have ever seen. It is tailored to the model's body perfectly, and it is so well made that I thought it was actually pants and a sleeveless blouse when I first saw it. The sheer sparkly thing underneath the top of the jumpsuit is also quite nice. Then the hat finishes the look with a perfect little mysterious push. I would rock this look so hard, it's not even funny.
The above suit cuts such a boxy, dramatic, strange and unique silhouette that I can't help but love it. That blazer has such strong shoulders, and I think it's fascinating the way it kind of boxes out at the bottom. And the pants are unique in the way they flare out into a box at the bottom. And once again, the hat tops off the look in an almost dashing way.
What else can I say about this collection? The three looks that I discussed I would wear in a heartbeat straight off the runway, and the rest that I didn't talk about is just plain beautiful, expertly made and above all else innovative. Olivier Theyskens is a genius of our generation, and I think it was a cool move on his part to take the creative director job at Theory. So after seeing this collection, I will await his future collections for Theory with baited breath.
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